In a bold departure from his signature dark aesthetic, renowned designer Rick Owens showcased a striking collection at the Paris menswear fashion shows this week. Embracing the power and unity of athletes, Owens presented a "gymnast bouquet" that captivated audiences and challenged the traditional runway format.
Uniting Fashion and Athletics in a Stunning Display
Defying Expectations with a Gymnastic Spectacle
Owens, known for his gothy and avant-garde designs, surprised fashion enthusiasts by incorporating a unique element into his spring/summer 2025 show – a steel structure featuring three gymnasts holding gravity-defying poses, carried by a group of young models in shorts and vests. This unexpected fusion of fashion and athletics set the stage for a captivating and thought-provoking presentation.The decision to feature gymnasts rather than professional models was a deliberate one, as Owens sought to create a sense of unity and collaboration. By inviting fashion college students and staff from across Paris to walk the runway, the designer fostered a spirit of inclusivity and community, challenging the traditional exclusivity often associated with high-fashion events.
Embracing Collective Expression through Monochromatic Elegance
Departing from his signature black aesthetic, Owens presented an entirely white and ivory collection, creating a striking visual contrast. The monochromatic palette, combined with the sci-fi-inspired elements such as Cleopatra-like headpieces and models adorned in balaclavas and capes, evoked a sense of otherworldly elegance.The collective nature of the presentation was further emphasized by the way the models walked the runway. Rather than the typical one-by-one format, groups of approximately 20 models reached the runway together, each wearing the same outfit. This collective approach to the runway experience underscored Owens' message of unity and reliance on one another.
Celebrating Collaboration and Individuality
Owens' decision to showcase the show in the expansive Palais de Tokyo, rather than the more intimate settings of his previous collections, was a deliberate move to welcome a wider audience. In a statement shared with the press, the designer expressed his desire to make the event more accessible, inviting fashion schools to participate and provide "men and women who would like to walk in this white satin army of love."This collaborative spirit extended beyond the runway, as Owens acknowledged the contributions of various creative partners. Choreographer and artist Ylva Falk, who had previously worked with Owens on a similar gravity-defying performance, was responsible for the gymnastic poses. Dafne Balatsos, a longtime collaborator, crafted the robes, while Tanja Vidic, a recent fashion graduate from Slovenia, contributed the imaginative knitwear.By embracing this collective approach, Owens not only celebrated the unity and reliance among fashion creatives but also recognized the individual talents that came together to bring his vision to life. This holistic approach to the show's production mirrored the designer's message of expressing both individuality and the strength of collective expression.
Reflecting on Unity in a Divisive World
Owens' decision to incorporate a flag with a picture of people holding hands into the gymnast bouquet was a poignant statement on the importance of unity, especially in the face of the "peak intolerance" he believes the world is currently experiencing. The designer's desire to remind the audience of the value of unity and reliance on one another resonated deeply, offering a powerful counterpoint to the divisive narratives that have dominated recent discourse.Through this multifaceted presentation, Owens challenged the traditional boundaries of fashion, blending athletic prowess, collaborative spirit, and a unifying message. By embracing a collective approach and celebrating the contributions of diverse talents, the designer's spring/summer 2025 show stood as a testament to the transformative power of fashion when it transcends individual expression and embraces the collective spirit.
